040 - Ons Island - Galicia/Spain

For those who can stay longer in Vigo or Pontevedra, they might wish to visit at least one island. Most likely it will be the Cies Islands or San Simon, presented  both in the previous articles. However there is a third island, more tricky to get to - the Ons Island? Let’s discover!




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040.1 Only one tourist boat leaves Vigo for Ons Island and the same brings people back. It takes 2 hours one way, and a part of that  journey is on the calm waters around Vigo. If you are lucky, you might spot common dolphins. So obviously most of my trip to the Ons islands was spent outside, with the camera close to my eye, just in case. 

040.2 During my trip to Ons Island, I have not seen dolphins, however I did catch this big boat (that is from PSA (now Stellantis) car plant, loaded with factory fresh new cars, ready for export). 

040.2 During my trip to Ons Island, I have not seen dolphins, however I did catch this big boat (that is from PSA (now Stellantis) car plant, loaded with factory fresh new cars, ready for export). 

040.4 The coastline is also packed with small boats, yet much bigger waves, and more powerful winds. I was mostly looking at the coast through my 300mm Tamron lens on the Canon 80D when the movement of the boat got me a bit sea sick. So I stopped before I would get worse. 

040.5 This is the docking area for the Ons Island and that is not the boat on which we arrived from Vigo (ours is the small one in the background coming to the island - this photo is actually made close to the return part). Close to this docking area, there is a cantina like building that offers a place to buy drinks (as far as I know, this is the only place to buy stuff, so even if you feel sick, you should buy for later, the sickness wears off pretty fast).

040.6 Since there is a limited number of tourists allowed on the island, per day, it means that there will be some time before the next boat arrives. Many people, as they arrive, rush towards the beach or on the hiking courses. This means that unlike with Cies Island, now is best to wait a bit for the big crowds to get some distance, and funny enough, crabs will start to get out, reassured by the silence that befalls the area. 

040.7 Church San Xaquin. I have not read much about Ons Island (before the trip) and so I was very surprised not only about the cantina… but also by the presence of a quite “big” church! I don’t remember it being opened, so I did not get inside. Also, this island is populated so there are villages with the main one being O Curro (the place with the docks, cantina / restaurant, shops). 

040.8 Tourism is one way locals earn their “bread”, just like this gentleman. However fishing is also very important and most of the time, it is complemented with agricultural activity. Probably this person did a shift at the cantina, rushed home, did chores there also, and then back to welcome the next tourist boat. 

040.9 The island is mostly quiet, and it is like this on purpose. Tourist numbers are limited so booking a spontaneous trip here might not be successful. 

040.10 Now remember I said that the number of people visiting this island is limited. Add to it the fact that in 75 years, the population went from 500 plus residents to just 80 something. A lot of houses are thus deserted. 

040.11 Blackberry bush - such a common sight in Europe

040.12 I love this image especially because it is just a prune, one with quite impressive details. How many have I eat at my countryside, each summer, and did not really look at any. Well this one I don’t know the taste, yet I will remember it the most. 

040.13 Wind and … I wonder if they locals have electricity as in central area and from there dispatched to each household or each household has it’s own domestic power generator.   

040.14 This is the Vella de San Xoquin Church that is in Canexol town (here is also the second beach that is facing the mainland). 

040.15 Buraco do Inferno - each island has it’s “thing” and in this case is this hole in the ground which during storms makes a bizarre sound as if it is the “tormenting souls from Hell itself, all crying out and echoing from outside”. More about it in the legends section. There are rings on the rocks, so professional hikers can hook up to them and descend inside the “cave”. 

040.16 Buraco do Inferno - I am not sure, but I think the hole on top is communicating with this “entrance” found on the side of the island. This would explain the noise propagation from waves on the side, to the hole on top. Anyway, just watch out when you walk, don’t get too close to the edge. 

040.17 The Ons island itself is way greener than Cies Islands, less high in altitude and more moderate in height variation. 

040.18 Near the Gate of Inferno there is a circular stone arrangement, that looks like a table encircled by handrails, with other stones that are like benches. Currently, a seagull has claimed the spot, and they are a protected species here so it knows it won’t be bothered. And because I started the hike later and took time to do photos, by the time I got here, it was pretty much deserted of tourists. 

040.19 Just a closeup of weird flowers. Could be Allium Sphaerocephalon… 

040.20 Me and my wife actually took turns while taking pictures of this cross. The reason I did this also in 3D for the article card, is because, personally, I think it looks like the head of a Sperm Whale. It even has the “mouth” open. This and other aspects of this island, remain a mystery to me and is not easy to find information about them (unless they are featured in legends, see more towards the end of the article). 

040.21 Carlina Corymbosa 

040.22 Big butterflies are at home here, with this friendly (that sadly had a portion of the right side wing missing) - Scarce Swallowtail 

040.23 Sahara Swallowtail - seen on Ons Island. Wife was busy taking photos of 

040.24 Large Skipper - this is the last Butterly that we got on photo (also my wife’s successful photo).

040.25 As previously stated, the Ons Island has a more gentle landscape and even forests and some agriculture. Here is the view of the main road going towards O Cucorno village (and the Ons Island Lighthouse). 

040.26 Zoom on the mirror that is covered during the day. 

040.27 In this image, I am on Ons Island (of course) and to the right is the Onza Island. Far, touched by mist and clouds are the Cies Islands 

040.28 Ons Island as I was leaving. Here we can see the big building where is the “cantina”, the tower of the church and the lighthouse on top of the hill. 


Will I go again to Ons Island? Probably yes, if I actually live again for a few years near Vigo-Pontevedra. Why not. However if I have like one week, I would still dedicate it to A Coruna (future article), Baiona and A Guarda. Also I would visit Zamans again, mostly because I like that one day hike. 

Thank you for reading this article, we hope it answers a few questions you might have had, and we hope you will check another article from this blog.  


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